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Need help deciding what to do with your old electronics? See below for help with Computers.
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Your computer isn't performing as well as you'd like or lacks the capability to handle certain tasks. For example,
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• It's lacking in speed, space or memory
• The screen is too small, and/or you want better resolution
• You want to record music or movies
• You want to enhance your video or gaming experience
• You want to hook up your new video camera
• You want to hook up your new PDA or MP3 player
• You can't run the latest software
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| Fix it: Check our Upgrade section for options |
Your computer is either broken or behaving erratically. For example,
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• You suspect a virus or spyware infection
• You're having trouble starting the PC
• There's a video display problem
• There's no sound
• The printer isn't working
• A CD or DVD won't play
• The Windows taskbar disappears
• The pointing device doesn't work or jumps around
• A hardware device (such as a CD-RW drive) won't work
• The Wi-Fi connection isn't working
• It won't connect to the Internet
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Fix it: Check our Repair section for advice on finding help |
| Your computer is working, but you no longer want it |
Fix it: Check our Donate or sell section for options |
| Your computer is broken, and you no longer want it |
Fix it: Check our Recycle section for options |
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Before buying a new computer, consider whether you can improve your existing one. Some problems can be solved with a simple clean-up, or a relatively inexpensive upgrade. Below you'll find help in making that decision:
| Your goal |
How you can upgrade |
Possible for a desktop? |
Possible for a laptop? |
Where to find help* |
| You want more space in your computer for new programs and files |
Clean up your hard drive |
Yes |
Yes |
Visit our Cleaning, maintenance & security section |
| Add or swap a hard drive |
Yes |
Yes |
See our "Add hard drive storage space" section below |
| You want your computer to run faster |
Clean up your hard drive |
Yes |
Yes |
Visit our Cleaning, maintenance & security section |
| Add memory/RAM |
Yes |
Yes |
helpwithpcs or PC911
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| You want a larger screen and/or better resolution |
Add a new monitor &/or upgrade your video card |
Yes |
External monitor: Yes; Video card: No |
Visit our Buying tips section |
| You want to record music or movies |
Add or swap a CD or DVD burner |
Yes |
Yes |
helpwithpcs |
| You want to record music or movies |
Add or swap a CD or DVD burner |
Yes |
Yes |
helpwithpcs |
| You want to enhance your video or gaming experience |
Upgrade your video card |
Yes |
No |
helpwithpcs |
| You want to hook up your new video camera |
Add a FireWire port |
Yes |
Yes |
Lifehacker |
| You want to hook up your new PDA or MP3 player |
Add a USB-2 port |
Yes |
Yes |
Lifehacker |
| You can't run the latest software |
Upgrade your Operating System |
Depends on the available hard drive space |
Depends on the available hard drive space |
For Windows, run Update from the Start Menu
For Macintosh, go to the Software Update Control Panel |
*These resources are provided for those who wish to learn more about upgrading or to perform the upgrade themselves. If that's not for you, consider hiring professional help (see the Repair section for resources).
Add hard drive storage space:
For desktops: Chances are your desktop PC has a space called a "drive bay" inside, reserved for a second hard drive and complete with the necessary power and data connectors. An 80- to 300-GB drive runs about 50 cents/GB plus $20. Installing a second hard drive on a fairly recent computer--one that came with Windows 98, Mac OS 9, or later--isn't difficult.
If your PC is more than three years old, find out from the manufacturer how large a hard drive it can accommodate. Older computers weren't designed for drives larger than 32 GB, but new drives often come with driver software that can work around this limitation. If you need to install such software, be prepared to follow directions carefully. If that's not for you, let a technician do it.
For desktops or laptops without room for another internal hard drive: External hard drives can generally be connected to computers dating back to 2003 that have a USB or FireWire port-or if it's a laptop, a PC-card slot. Older computers with a USB-1 connection may be too slow for an external hard drive, except one used simply for backups. However, if your PC is a desktop with Windows 98 or later, you can still add a plug-in PCI card (about $30) with USB-2 or FireWire ports to plug in the drive.
Not for the timid: changing hard drives. If you have no way to add a second hard drive, or your hard drive is becoming unreliable, consider moving everything to a new drive. How difficult this is depends on the type of computer and version of Windows you're running. Given the variety of configurations, complexity of the task, and potential for getting into trouble, we recommend against such hard-drive swapping, unless you're prepared to reinstall your operating system and programs from scratch. Otherwise, leave it to someone with experience and the knowledge of how to handle unanticipated problems. And, be sure to back up your important files, including financial documents and email.
To learn how to clean up your existing hard drive, visit our Cleaning, maintenance & security section.
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Taking steps to keep your computer clean, well-maintained, and secure is a good idea for a number of reasons: Keeping it cool, dry, and clean on the outside can help prevent performance problems on the inside; keeping it "clean" on the inside can help you gain back valuable speed and space; keeping it secure can help you reduce your vulnerability to online dangers.
Keep it cool, dry & clean on the outside Keep it clean on the inside Keep it secure
KEEP IT COOL, DRY & CLEAN ON THE OUTSIDE:
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Keep your computer in a controlled environment. Computers do best in a cool (60-75 degrees F), dry, dust-free environment, out of direct sun.
Remove dust buildup to avoid overheating that may make your computer behave erratically or even burn out a component. Before you clean, the computer must be turned turn off. Then, vacuum the keyboard and case openings with a soft brush attachment (vacuuming when the computer is on can generate static electricity that can destroy it). Also, remove and wash the ball in the mouse or track ball. Tape can be used to remove deposits from rollers.
Clean your screen. A soft, lint-free cloth can be used to dust off the monitor. If there are fingerprints or other substances, use a bit of non-ammoniated glass cleaner, and spray the cloth, not the monitor.
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KEEP IT "CLEAN" ON THE INSIDE:
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Remove unneeded programs. Look at your program list in Windows "Add or Remove Programs" Control Panel, or Mac OS's Applications folder, and uninstall those you don't use anymore; just be careful not to remove programs you don't recognize, particularly Windows or MAC OS system programs, as that could cause your applications to malfunction.
Find and delete unnecessary files. You may have folders full of files you no longer use that can be removed. But, as with programs, keep any files you don't recognize, particularly Windows or MAC OS system files, which are needed to keep your computer running properly.
Run Microsoft's maintenance tools: Disk Cleanup, Disk Defragmenter, and ScanDisk. This can speed up your computer by finding and fixing errors. Generally, you should run Disk Cleanup about once per month, and less if you have a large amount of space (>20GB) left your hard drive. Run Disk Defragmenter about once a month; it will do ScanDisk itself as a first step (do ScanDisk separately if you get any mysterious errors reading files). To learn more, check your manual or the Microsoft Web site for help with Disk Cleanup, Disk Defragmenter, and ScanDisk.
Regularly empty the recycle or trash bin and delete temporary Internet files. This will recover hard drive space. If you're running low on disk space (say, less than 5 GB), you can also reduce the amount of space your computer allocates to the bin and Internet files in the first place. To learn how, check your operating system's Help manual or Web site.
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KEEP IT SECURE:
General security
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Regularly upgrade your operating system, web browser and other key software, such as bug fixes and security enhancements. Every program has its own means of updating with varying degrees of automation. For Windows, run Windows Update from the Start Menu; for Macintosh, go to the Software Update Control Panel. For other programs, check for manufacturers' update instructions or web downloads online.
Regularly back up personal files. This safeguards your data in case of a security problem. Consider using a plug-in external hard drive as your main or backup storage, so that if the computer becomes disabled, you'll already have your files off the machine.
And don't forget the surge protector. It not only protects your equipment, but it's an easy way to save on "standby power"- the energy that many electrical appliances consume even after you hit their off switch. Turning off the surge protector cuts the electricity supply to everything, including the standby power. But be sure to shut down the computer normally first.
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For Consumer Reports latest information on Internet threats and how to stay safe online, click here.
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Find a new home for your computer. Generally, if your computer is less than five years old and in working condition, someone else may be able to use it. The sooner you find a new home for it the better; it's estimated that PCs lose about half of their value, on average, each year.
Options for donating:
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• Check with thrift stores and charities; many may take usable computers for groups or individuals that can't afford to buy new ones. Some may even refurbish and repair the machines. For options, search Earth911 and TechSoup which offer Zip-code searchable listings of local and national organizations. One option is the National Cristina Foundation, which connects potential computer donors with local schools and charities.
Note: Before you pack up your computer, be sure to contact the organization, or check its Web site to find out if it's currently accepting the type and condition of computer you plan to give away and whether you should include any software.
• Consider giveaway sites, such as freecycle.org, where your computer will be listed online in your community and possibly picked up for free by a neighbor who wants it.
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Options for selling:
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• If the system isn't too old and is still in working condition or at least repairable, another user might buy it through an ad in your local paper or an online service like Craig's list or an auction site like eBay.
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Don't donate or sell your identity! Before you donate your machine, make sure that you rid it of all traces of personally identifiable information that could be used for identity theft. Visit our Protect your identity section to learn how.
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Consider the case for repairs. If your computer is less than five years old, it may be worth repairing, according to Consumer Reports' experts. Below you'll find help on fixing 11 common computer problems, as well as general advice on where to find additional help.
Easy fixes Where to find help
Easy fixes for 11 common computer problems
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1. If you suspect a virus or spyware infection, , unplug the phone line or network cable from the computer. Then, if you have protective software for both, make sure that each has the latest updates, and run a complete scan of your system using your software. If you don't have working protection software, buy and install it (see our Cleaning, maintenance & security section for more information). In the meantime, you can also run a free virus scan at the site of a major software vendor, such as Trend Micro or Panda Software.
Before you run the virus scan, you shouldn't delete files, even infected ones. Viruses can infect files your computer needs, which can often be disinfected by antivirus software. Don't reformat your hard drive or run your e-mail program until you have run the scan. If antivirus software doesn't fix the problem, try using "system restore," if your operating system has it, or contact the antivirus manufacturer.
2. Trouble starting the PC. If you have a PC with Windows and see nothing at all on the monitor, listen for beeping sounds after you turn the PC on. Those are codes indicating internal problems (one beep usually means all is well). Find out what BIOS (system software) your computer uses; a PC displays it each time you turn the power on, just before Windows starts. Then check with the manufacturer of the computer or motherboard to decipher the codes. If the computer gets past the initial startup and hangs before Windows boots, try Microsoft's step-by-step process.
If you have a Mac and see nothing at all on the monitor, with your computer off, insert your startup CD and start the computer while holding down the "C" key; it should boot from your CD-Rom drive. If you don't have your startup disk, or if that didn't work, then, with the computer off, start the computer and hold down the "option" key. This should bring up a menu for any valid startup drive in the system, letting you boot up so you can access files or reinstall Mac OS.
3. No video or other display problem. Make sure the monitor is turned on. Raise the brightness and contrast controls. Try different resolution settings. To do that, you might have to start Windows in "safe mode." Make sure the video card (inside the computer) is properly seated. Still nothing? It could be the driver for your display or video card, or the card itself.
4. No sound. Try headphones or another pair of speakers to see whether the problem lies with the original speakers or your computer. If you still have no sound, check the Sound and Audio Devices settings in Windows' Control Panel or System Preferences/Sound on a Mac's Apple menu, or download a new driver for the sound card. To learn more, check your operating system's manual or Web site.
5. Printer isn't working. Make sure there's enough toner and ink (all colors). Check for paper jams. Use the printer's self-cleaning feature. Be sure you're using the right print settings. Use the printer's self-test to see whether the printer is broken. Print a test page from other applications to see whether you can print at all. Still stymied? It could be a driver problem, especially if the printer spews out a string of hieroglyphics. In this case, restart both the computer and the printer. If that doesn't work, you may need to reload the drivers for your printer from the manufacturer's disk or Web site.
6. CD or DVD won't play. Dirt and smudges can prevent a disc from playing. Wipe the disc with a soft cloth, from the center to the outside. If it's really dirty, wash it with mild detergent and pat it dry.
7. Windows taskbar disappears. Move the mouse around the edges of your screen until the cursor looks like a double arrow, then left-click and drag the arrow away from the edge of the screen until you see the taskbar. To move the taskbar, click and drag on a blank area of it.
8. Pointing device doesn't work or jumps around. Try cleaning the mouse's rollers or, if it's an optical mouse, check for dirt embedded inside. Make sure the surface you're using isn't too shiny, which could keep the mouse from moving properly. If the mouse is frozen, restart the PC. If this happens often, get a new driver for the mouse.
9. A hardware device (such as a CD-RW drive) won't work. Uninstall the device from Device Manager, accessed via the Windows System Control Panel's Hardware tab. Then restart the computer. The operating system should redetect and reinstall the device driver.
10. Wi-Fi connection isn't working. Big metallic objects or thick walls can block the signal. Reorient the router's antenna or move the router. Check the antenna on any external Wi-Fi device to make sure it's not broken. You can also check the software settings by logging into the router through a Web browser on any PC connected to it with a cable. Follow the instructions in the router's user manual to configure the WiFi settings.
11. Can't connect to Internet. Shut down the computer. Unplug the router and cable modem. Plug the modem back in first. Wait for the lights that indicate you're connected to come on. If they don't, the problem is with the connection and not the computer. Contact your Internet service provider. If the lights do come on, wait 10 seconds, plug the router in, and start up the computer.
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Where to find help
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Search for help in your manual or online. If you're a do-it-yourselfer, you can check your manual for a troubleshooting section, or search for help online. For tips on where to look for free online support, see Free help for the asking (available to subscribers).
If your computer is off warranty, consider factory or authorized service, but don't dismiss independents. Manufacturer technical support for computers is among today’s lowest-rated services in Consumer Reports surveys. But finding a local guru who can come to your home and diagnose what ails your machine may be a time- and cost-effective alternative to buying a new one. For help deciding when to hire an expert and a sampling of independent services, consult our Guerilla guide to tech support (available to subscribers).
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If you can't donate your old computer, or if it's broken beyond repair, recycle it. Today there are numerous recycling options for old computers. However, not all the computer equipment returned for recycling ends up at an appropriately managed facility. (To learn more about this issue, including why it's important to keep computers out of landfills, visit our section on What you need to know). Here are some tips on choosing a responsible recycler, as well as information on where to recycle rechargeable batteries and printer cartridges.
Computer recycling resources
Printer cartridge recycling resources
Rechargeable battery recycling resources
Don't recycle your identity!
To find a responsible computer recycler:
1. Consider a recycler that has signed this pledge. A coalition of environmental groups recently established a voluntary program known as the Electronics Recycler's Pledge of True Stewardship. The recyclers agree not to export hazardous electronic components to developing countries, not to dispose of equipment in municipal landfills or incinerators not equipped to handle it, and not to use prison labor, among other things. The program is relatively new, but the number of companies that have signed on is growing. For a searchable map of recyclers that have signed the pledge, click here.
2. Otherwise, find a recycler using the list of resources below, and ask them these questions:
The following questions and acceptable sample answers were adapted from the Basel Action Network (BAN), an environmental advocacy group.
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Q1. Which state or local electronics disposal laws do you comply with?
[Acceptable answer would be that they comply with state and local electronics disposal regulations; to find out about E-waste legislation in your area, visit the US Environmental Protection Agency's e-cycling map (scroll down to see state listings)].
Q2. Do you send any electronic waste overseas? If so, where? [Acceptable answer would be that if they do send it overseas, they send it to developed countries including those in the European Union, and to facilities with environmental management systems in place.]
Q3. Where do you send your hazardous waste? [Acceptable answer would be that they send it to a facility that specializes in hazardous waste.]
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-More specifically, where do you send your high value circuit boards (those that contain precious metals found in computer processors)? [Acceptable answer would be that circuit boards are sent to a facility that recovers metals or repairs boards.]
-Where do you send your low-value circuit boards (those that contain little or no precious metals found in monitors and TVs)? [Acceptable answer would be that these circuit boards are sent to a facility that repairs boards or disposes of them in an environmentally responsible way.]
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Computer recycling resources:
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• Local community programs. Some municipalities offer recycling programs that accept electronic waste. To find out whether a program exists in your community, you can contact your local waste management agency or consult the searchable map on the Electronic Industry Alliance Web site.
• Manufacturer programs. You may find that the company you buy your next computer from will take the old one off your hands, either for free or at a nominal cost. Some companies also provide discounts on new equipment for customers who send the old gear back for recycling. Major manufacturers with recycling services include Apple, Dell, HP, and Gateway.
• Retailer programs. Some retailers accept used computer equipment for recycling. For example, Staples now accepts all used computers at any time for a fee of $10. Other retailers like Best Buy and Office Depot sponsor free, limited-time, in-store collection events.
• Consider a private recycling firm. You can also take your electronic waste directly to a private recycling company. You can find lists of such companies on the Electronic Industries Alliance page (click on your state, then on find reuse and recycle options), as well as at Earth 911 and TechSoup. Be sure to contact the recycler, or check for details on its Web site, to find out if it accepts the type of computer you plan to recycle.
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Recycling old batteries. Rechargeable batteries should be recycled to keep the heavy metals they contain out of landfills. The industry-funded Rechargeable Battery Recycling Corporation has more than 30,000 locations where you can drop off batteries for recycling. Those include many major retailers, including Best Buy, Home Depot, Staples, and Target among others.
Recycling empty printer cartridges. Used ink and toner cartridges are easier for companies to recycle because they can be refilled and resold at a profit. Local charities often hold printer cartridge and toner recycling drives, and Staples offers drop-off boxes in each of its stores. Consumers may also be able to profit from selling their old ink cartridges and toners to recyclers. Among others, Recyclers USA offers up to $3 per cartridge.
Don't recycle your identity! Before you recycle your machine, make sure that you rid it of all traces of personally identifiable information that could be used for identity theft. Visit our Protect your identity section to learn how.
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If you’re looking for a “greener” computer, here are several factors you may want to consider in addition to performance and cost before buying a new one.
RELIABILITY
Consider the manufacturer's reliability track record. Consumer Reports has compiled brand repair history on more than 100,000 desktops and laptop computers. To find out which brands have been most and least reliable, review our brand repair history reports for laptops and desktops. (available to subscribers).
UPGRADABILITY
Buy an upgradeable machine. Doing so could help you avoid having to dispose of your computer prematurely. Though they’re more expensive, workhorse versions of desktops and laptops are versatile, and you can usually expand their capacity and add features easily. Many offer cards for improved audio and video performance, although some don't have enough muscle for serious video editing or extreme gaming. Budget computers, on the other hand, may be more difficult to add features to. They are also apt to have slower processors and smaller hard drives than other models, as well as less sophisticated audio-video components and keyboards. Visit our Green Ratings to find out which computers offer free memory slots and more.
COMPATIBILITY
Consider compatibility. Few computers today operate alone. Increasingly they are the "mother ship" for a host of peripherals like printers, digital cameras, music players, and even cell phones. Manufacturers can make it frustrating to use them all together, so the addition of a new music player, for example, might end with the purchase of a whole new computer. To avoid surprises, make sure you know what's compatible with what before you buy any new digital device. Here are the key pieces of information you'll need to collect:
• The current operating system (Mac OS 9 or 10; Windows XP, 98, ME, or Vista)
• Amount of Random Access Memory (RAM), in MB
• Amount of available hard drive space (in GB)
• Type and number of USB and Firewire ports
• Speed of your processor (in GHz) and its type (Intel Pentium, AMD Athlon, etc.)
ENERGY
Consider an energy-saving model. Electronics play an increasingly large role in home energy consumption, accounting for about 15 percent of household electricity use. To find energy-saving models, check our Green Ratings, which reflect power consumption in a typical pattern of use, along with power saving features. As of July 2007, the voluntary Energy Star standards for computers include operating power, which the earlier requirements didn't take into account. While the majority of computers on the market met the previous requirements, which measured operating power only when the computer was turned off, in standby mode, only about 25 percent are expected to meet the new standards.
Note that laptops use less energy. Compared to desktops, laptops use significantly less energy. To compare performance between laptops, check Consumer Reports Ratings (available to subscribers).
Go with an LCD monitor. Whether you're looking for a new monitor to go with your old computer or with a new one, an LCD model is the best choice. It will use half as much energy and contain much less lead than a comparably sized cathode ray tube (CRT) displays. The LCD monitor's flat-screen design will also take up considerably less room on your desk. One downside is that it may cost you more, although LCD prices continue to fall. To compare performance between LCD monitors, check Consumer Reports Ratings (available to subscribers).
TOXICS
Consider whether the manufacturer has reduced or eliminated toxics. Some computer makers are developing new product designs that reduce the use of toxics, partly in response to the European Union's Restriction of the use of Certain Hazardous Substances (RoHS) law. California has passed a similar, but less rigorous law that became effective in January 2007 that bans the sale of electronics including computers, computer monitors and televisions that contain certain heavy metals, including lead, mercury, cadmium and hexavalent chromium. For more information on California's law, visit the California Department of Toxic Substances Control. The state also passed a ban to take effect in 2008 on the use of some brominated flame retardants after the chemicals were found in fish from the San Francisco Bay.
RECYCLING
Consider whether a manufacturer has a recycling program. Some companies offer recycling programs in which they’ll take back computer equipment for recycling and reuse. Consumers Union, the parent organization of Consumer Reports, supports this type of recycling program. To find out which companies have recycling programs and how they work, check our Market watch section [coming soon!]. You can also check the progress of major computer manufacturers by consulting the 2005 computer manufacturer report card issued by The Silicon Valley Toxics Coalition, and the Guide to Greener Electronics, issued by Greenpeace.
Look for equipment with replaceable batteries. Laptops and handheld computers are costly enough, but most also have batteries with a limited life span. After charging and recharging they eventually need to be replaced. While batteries for laptops can be replaced by the user, replacing the battery on a hand-held device - such as the iPod - often requires returning it to the manufacturer and paying a hefty sum. Your data will also be erased. Be sure to recycle rechargeable batteries responsibly. Check the Rechargeable Battery Recycling Corporation for drop-off locations near you.
To find out which companies have reduced toxics in their computer equipment, consult the Electronic Product Environmental Assessment Tool (EPEAT), which lists computer models that contain reportedly fewer toxics than conventional models. You can also check the Guide to Greener Electronics, issued by Greenpeace.
REUSE
Consider a used or refurbished computer. With many businesses replacing hardware, there is a growing secondary market for refurbished machines selling for bargain prices. Most equipment made after 2001 will meet basic needs-word processing, digital photography, calendars, basic games, etc. You can check Dell, RefurbDepot, and Electro Rent for options. Some equipment is also available on Ebay, or from local listings on sites like Craig's List or freecycle. Before you buy, try to get a test drive, and if you're purchasing from a company, be sure to check the details on the return policy and any warranty. Look for PCs that have at least an 800 MHz processor, 20 GB hard drive, a CD-ROM drive, and USB ports-and that come with Windows XP. For Macs, be sure they have Mac OS 10.3 or later.
RELATED LINKS
Consumer Reports Computers Decision Guide. Visit the complete guide (some content is available to subscribers only).
My green electronics. The Electronics Industry Alliance has developed criteria for “greener” electronics and offers an online searchable database that allows consumers to search by product at MyGreenElectronics.
EPEAT. The Electronic Products Environmental Assessment Tool is a searchable database developed by government, private, non-profit and academic representatives to help purchasers find “greener” computers. Products are arranged in three tiers of environmental performance: Bronze, Silver and Gold. To search and compare different computer models, visit EPEAT.
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Computers are a serious solid-waste problem. According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, in 2005, discarded electronics totaled about 2 million tons. It’s estimated that only about 15 to 20 percent of this was recycled.
Computer equipment contains toxic materials:
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• Computer monitors with cathode ray tubes (CRTs) contain four to eight pounds of lead on average. The EPA has identified electronic products as the largest single source of lead in municipal solid waste.
• Printed circuit boards in computers, music players, and other electronic devices contain toxic metals such as chromium, nickel, and zinc.
• Batteries in the computer may contain nickel and cadium.
• Relays, switches, and liquid crystal displays (LCDs) may contain mercury.
• Plastics used in many computers also contain flame retardants that are toxic and persist in the environment. Studies suggest they accumulate in household dust and in the food chain, and they have been detected in some fish.
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If all the retired equipment currently stored in homes were discarded with the regular trash, municipal landfills and incinerators would have to absorb nearly one billion pounds of lead, two million pounds of cadium, and several hundred thousand pounds of mercury. For more information, visit the Silicon Valley Toxics Coalition online.
Not all the computer equipment returned for recycling necessarily ends up at an appropriately managed facility. The Silicon Valley Toxics Coalition, an environmental advocacy group, has found that the majority of equipment is diverted to uncontrolled landfills or to unsafe recycling operations in developing countries. As a result, the local environment in these areas can become contaminated, and local residents, in an effort to reclaim valuable metal components, may be exposed to hazardous materials.
A coalition of environmental groups has recently established a voluntary program known as the Electronics Recycler's Pledge of True Stewardship. The recyclers agree not to export hazardous computer components to developing countries, not to dispose of equipment in municipal landfills or incinerators not equipped to handle it, and not to use prison labor, among other things. The program is new, but the number of companies that have signed on is growing. Click here to see a list of recyclers that signed the pledge.
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Before donating or recycling your computer, you can avoid identity theft by erasing personal data and removing your files. Windows and Mac OS don't completely remove files you delete, but third-party software can. Here are some options:
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• One good, free program is Eraser. Just download the program and follow the instructions on the Web site.
• Alternatively, you can take many PCs back to their factory-fresh condition--expunging all the files you created--by using the Restore CD that may have come with the machine. Usually this involves booting the PC from the Restore CD and following a few on-screen prompts. If you're offered restore options, choose the one that is more thorough, usually called "full restore" or "restore with formatting." (This process is irreversible. Make sure you don't need anything that didn't originally come on the PC's hard drive.) You may have to continue restoring additional CDs or re-install applications separately.
• If you don't have a Restore CD, another thorough way to erase data is to re-format the hard drive, after which you re-install the operating system from the original CD. Here's how:
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With Windows:
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a. Restart the PC from an "emergency boot" diskette, which you can create following instructions in Windows Help.
b. Once you've rebooted to the diskette, type "format c: /s"--which will reinitialize the hard drive and make it bootable.
c. Reboot to the diskette again, selecting the option "with CD support."
d. Run the "setup" program on the Windows CD.
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With a Mac:
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a. Set the Startup Drive to be the CD drive.
b. Boot to the Mac OS CD.
c. Open the Utilities folder and run Drive Setup.
d. Select the hard drive and click "Initialize."
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In the absence of a federal program, electronics recycling is currently a patchwork of manufacturer, retailer, and state and local government initiatives. Here's a look at some of the major state-based recycling programs:
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• In Maine, where electronic equipment is banned from landfills, municipalities deliver household computer monitors and televisions to consolidation facilities for recycling. Manufacturers are then billed for the cost of recycling based on the proportion of waste generated by their products. This approach may provide an incentive for manufacturers to design equipment that lasts longer or is more easily recycled, according to proponents. Municipalities may charge consumers a small fee to cover collection costs.
• Maryland is going in a different direction with its five-year pilot program, which currently only applies to desktop and laptop computers and computer monitors, but could conceivably be expanded to include TV sets. All computer manufacturers in Maryland must pay an initial, annual $5,000 registration fee that counties and municipalities will use to facilitate recycling. If the manufacturer starts a take-back program and maintains it accordingly, the fee for subsequent years is reduced to $500.
• In California, where electronic equipment is also banned from landfills, buyers of computer monitors (and TVs) pay a non-refundable fee of $6 to $10 at the point of sale, depending on the screen dimensions. That money is then funneled by the state into a system of approved collectors and recyclers. While that promotes recycling, it may not create an incentive for industry to design longer-lasting products, reuse old components, or make equipment easier to recycle, recycling proponents say.
• In Washington state, electronics manufacturers will be required as of 2009 to pay for the collection, transportation, and recycling of computers, monitors, and TVs from consumers, small business, schools, governments, and charities in the state.
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To learn more about state-wide electronics recycling laws, visit the Electronics TakeBack Coalition Web site.
Some state and local governments have banned CRT computer and television monitors from landfills. States with bans include California, Maine, Massachusetts, Minnesota, and New Hampshire. To find out if a ban exists in your community, you can contact your local waste management agency.
Manufacturer recycling programs. Several manufacturers now have recycling programs, including Apple, Dell, HP, and Gateway. Some will take back their equipment for recycling and reuse in what's known as Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) or take-back programs. But some charge a nominal fee or require the purchase of a new computer before they'll accept an old one for recycling. Other companies contribute to private recycling programs. Consumers Union, the publisher of Consumer Reports, supports the concept of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR).
CU has also published a white paper, "Electronic Waste: Finding Sustainable Solutions that Work Better for Consumers" that explores the growing problem of electronic waste. You can read a summary (PDF) or the complete paper (PDF).
Taking out toxics.
Some computer makers are developing new product designs that reduce the use of toxics, partly in response to the European Union's Restriction of the use of Certain Hazardous Substances (RoHS) law. California has passed a similar, but less rigorous law that will become effective in January 2007 that bans the sale of electronics including computers, computer monitors and televisions that contain certain heavy metals, including lead, mercury, cadmium and hexavalent chromium. For more information on California's law, visit the California Department of Toxic Substances Control. The state also passed a ban to take effect in 2008 on the use of some brominated flame retardants after the chemicals were found in fish from the San Francisco Bay.
Creating demand for greener computers and monitors. Recognizing that the federal government is the largest purchaser of IT products and services worldwide, accounting for 7 percent of the market, the White House and EPA recently launched the Federal Electronics Challenge. This is a voluntary program aimed at helping federal agencies 'green' their procurement, use, and disposal of electronics. For more information, visit The Federal Electronics Challenge program online.
Defining what green means for computers. To help public and private sector purchasers buy greener computers and provide one consistent set of environmental performance criteria for manufacturers to design to, a group of key stakeholders, including government, private, non-profit and academic representatives, has developed an Electronic Products Environmental Assessment Tool (EPEAT). EPEAT evaluates products according to three tiers of environmental performance: Bronze, Silver and Gold. To learn more, visit EPEAT online.
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